Hotel Copernicus

There was a time when Poland’s second city would have been little more than a tourism punchline. These days Kraków is rapidly emerging as an alternative to well-trod paths like Prague: its historical beauty is still drawing new crowds, it’s a surprisingly lively city, and it’s cheap. Thus you can’t really judge the Hotel Copernicus by its nightly rate — it’s a first-rate boutique hotel, and its relative affordability only makes it more attractive. Here’s what it’s not: the Copernicus is not the typical luxury hotel. With just twenty-nine rooms it’s more personal than that. The beds are heavy and serious, with not just headboards but footboards as well, and the furnishings and décor maintain a sober Renaissance atmosphere. Contemporary comforts are present as well: the marble-tiled bathrooms are swanky and modern, many with tubs, some with whirlpool baths. It’s in the suites that the Copernicus crosses over into luxury territory: the junior suites have views up the hill towards Wawel Castle, and the luxury suites are essentially Renaissance apartments. There’s a modern-Polish restaurant, and a rooftop bar with a view, and the cellar vaults are home to a small spa and wellness center — definitely above and beyond for a hotel of just 29 rooms.